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Taking the GHAN from Adelaide to Darwin

 

It had always been my plan to cross from south to north on the Ghan through Alice Springs, but didn’t think about booking anything until I got to Auckland; luckily there was still space, so I had the ticket “in the bag” for nearly 2 months. What I didn’t know was that this line was only opened 15 years ago. The line had gone through to Alice Springs since before WWII, but the extension was completed over 100 years after it had been mooted. The train has accommodation for passengers in 2 classes as well as a complement of staff to look after them plus, of course, the drivers and engineers. I had carefully selected an hotel opposite the station in Adelaide only to discover that the 1km-long Ghan has a separate terminal!

 

I checked in and was soon aboard in my cabin in a carriage of single cabins. Compact but not squeezed with enough room to sit and read/use computer and a basin.

Shared loos and very spacious showers.

         

 

     

The Ghan set off out of Adelaide, and soon we were travelling across flat lands which disappeared to the horizon

    

Once in a while the line curved and I caught a glimpse of the front of the train through my window.

 

The ground scenery changed very little, but the sky seemed to be an ever-changing kalaidescope

         

I went through to the bar-carriage to join/meet other passengers for a pre-dinner drink, and the sun started to set as we were seated for dinner

    

On Monday morning, there was an early start as we disembarked the train which had stopped in the middle of the desert for us to watch the sunrise. Coffee, juice, tea and bacon & egg rolls were on hand (reminding me of going on safari) as we stood/sat around in the cool morning air chatting and passing the time waiting for the sunset which….. never really arrived!

         

The sky brightened over a rather damp-looking horizon and we were ushered back to the carriages as the weak sun made its appearance.

 

    

 

The train slowed for us to see the “Iron Man” sculpture. Not very impressive, but it did mark the millionth railway-sleeper laid in the construction of the line. Impressive!

    

TLess impressive was the rain which awaited us in Alice Springs.

The locals were delighted to have had their first rainfall of the year.

The tourists put on a brave face.

 

There was a comprehensive tour (+begging foreign tourists for financial support) of the Royal Flying Doctor Service which has expanded beyond recognition throughout my lifetime and now boasts a fleet of over 60 modern aircraft all fully fitted with mobile intensive-care facilities and offering far more than the original emergency services. All very impressive.

We followed our visit to the RFDS with a trip out to the Telegraph station where the pioneer who originally found Alice Springs whilst looking for a route for the telegraph line from Darwin to Adelaide.

 

He discovered water coming from the rocks which he mistakenly thought was a spring. It wasn’t, it was just a water-hole. He didn’t know this at the time so decided to name the place after his wife, Alice. She never came to the place so, as our guide told us, the place was named after a spring that doesn’t exist and a woman who never came here! Still, Alice Springs sounds a lot more romantic than any alternatives…

We changed time zone as we went into Northern Territory 

 

    

On the Tuesday morning I was awake for the sunrise which I observed from the comfort of my bed, and when we arrived at Katherine we went by coach to the Katherine river with its’ gorges and aboriginal rock art. The driver of our boat was a real bushman and very softly spoken.

 

         

 

        

I wasn’t the only person in the group who had initial difficulty seeing the drawings on the rock faces.

            

 

As I walked back to the bus from the Katherin River, I saw a family of bats/flying fox resting before their night out.

    

The closer we got to Darwin, there were more & more signs of civilisation with fences, cattle ranches and also huge termite hills

 

    

…..and at last I saw what I’d been looking out for all the way from Alice Springs – a “road train” . I’d missed a couple before and only got a reasonable photo of this one.. and it doesn’t look nearly as impressive as my fantasy (based on films). Perhaps the fact that it was on a surfaced rather than a dust road diminished the romance…

 

So.. what did I think of the Ghan? It was great, but the problem is that since the rail-line is actually for freight, the Ghan can only run twice a week in each direction. As a result they have decided to make it into a premium offering. They used to have a sitting-up class which obviously carried people in higher density (I took one from Byron Bay to Sydney) and I would happily have paid less for less comfort and pampering. Because it only runs twice a week it meant that I couldn’t stay overnight to go to Ayers Rock. Those that I met who were making or had made the Uluru trip had then flown in/out!

The high cost means that the demographic is OLD and mainly foreign. For my journey there were more Aussies, Kiwis and North Americans up to Alice Springs and masses of Germans on the second leg. I was certainly in the lower quartile of age. 

The service was very good and the friendly staff worked really hard. A few things took the shine off like the shambles when we arrived at Darwin and the obvious lack of training for new staff members who were obviously being trained on the job.

 

For those of you interested in the numbers:

·      The train travelled the 2,979 km at an average speed of 85kph

·      There were around 283 passengers and 49 crew aboard

·      This was all powered by 3 power vans and 2 locomotives

·      There were also 2 luggage carriages

 

And lastly, the touching story Bruce and Sheila

 

********** Sheila & Bruce **********

The bonus at the end of the trip was that when we arrived in Darwin there were coaches waiting to take us into town and whilst the majority were couples I was sitting on the bus when an elderly lady came aboard and I offered the seat beside me to her. We started to chat and luckily it was a long journey as we peeled back layers of history. Sheila (yes – I did point out that Sheila and Bruce were talking!) is 84 and lives in Melbourne. Her husband died 8 years ago (on 20th June) and also had diabetes as does one of her three sons.

 

She had been born in Yorkshire and come to Oz as a youngster. Then the floodgates opened when she told me she was an orphan who’d been shipped out by the British Government and had been sent to an outback farm where she’d been virtual slave-labour. She is FURIOUS about the way that the UK government has only now offered compensation (£20,000) but only to those who are still alive! It’s a disgrace. I feel like instigating a campaign to have the money which would have gone to those who died put into a fund to stop this kind of thing ever happening again. Or directing it to people who fall outside the definition.

 

I felt humbled to be with a person who is justifiably angry with the system and politicians but at the same time not in the slightest bit bitter about her experiences. She joked that it was only after talking to her dog that she decided to take the Ghan trip. (I saw photos of both the dog and her late husband). I said I wasn’t returning to Melbourne but with a smile she gave me her address – 97 Easey Street. She said she wasn’t rich enough to live on “easy street”, but I told her she was……  

 

A lovely woman, and a great shame that we had not met earlier in the trip.

 

 

 

Click HERE for all my Ghan Photos

 

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